Wednesday, November 11, 2009


winter is looming, the cape is dark early and light late. nights are cold and the leaves have almost stopped falling from the trees.


the smell of decay from the ground rises with the warmth it creates. And most importantly, the surf has been great. october had some magical days for me with one day producing three stand up in and out barrels. to get one barrel in a day and make it out for me is magical. Three, that's a dream, and it was true and i felt great for a few days afterwards replaying it in my head.


been clean for over 2 months. really helping out every aspect of my life. a lot of clarity, and a lot of fun. Shoulda done this years ago!